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ALONISSOS

Quick Facts: Alonissos
Pronunciation ah-loh-nee-soss
Alternate Spellings Alonnisos, Allonisos
Transportation Ferry, water taxi, and bus
Main Attractions Monk Seals, fishing, hiking
Food Excellent seafood
Accommodations Basic but good

Alonissos Characteristics

Long and narrow and almost as verdantly green as Skopleos, Skiathos and Skiros, Alonissos is the least visited of the Sporades Greek Island Group. It is part of a small archipelago of nine islets. Naturally, the main mode of transportaion is by boat.

Alonissos' land mass is 64 sq. km, with 64 km of coastline. Alonissos lies 35 nautical miles from Evia and 68 from Volos. The population is around 3,000.

A fleet of water taxis serves the main beaches, with larger boats sailing around Alonissos and further north to the deserted islands of the Marine Park.

There are pine forests and beautiful sandy beaches. Visitors in search of peace and quiet, plenty of freedom to hike, fish and swim will love Alonissos.

In 1965 a violent earthquake destroyed the main hilltop town, called old Alonissos or Chora (pronounced hora). The quake produced the separated islets that now form the surrounding archipelago.

Island Features

greek sporades island alonissos The waters and small islets around Alonissos are the marine preserve of the Mediterranean Monk Seal, Europe's rarest animal. No sewage is allowed into the sea, resulting in the cleanest waters in Greece. The rare Eleonora Falcon is also to be seen occasionally flying overhead.

Monk seals live in sea-caves. They are shy and afraid of humans. Should you be lucky enough to see one, make as little noise as possible and please leave the animals alone. Greek fisherman used to kill them on sight as competitors for fish, but they are protected now by Greek and international law. Only abut 500 remain. About 30 live on the islet of Piperi where visitors are forbidden unless on special eco-tour. Visit the offices of the Hellenic Society for the Preservation of the Monk Seal (HSSPMS) in Patitri near the quay for more info. The main research center for the HSSPMS is at the far northern tip of the island near Gerakas.

Alonissos is the main location for eco-tourism in Greece, and its slow development means that it's eco-tourism done right.

The main island has two roads, one from the port of Patitiri to the Old Town and the other from Patitiri to the northern tip of the island, with a side road branching off to Steni Vala and Aghios Dimitrios.

There are taxis and bus service between Patitiri and the Old Town from June to September, ranging from four buses daily to nine or twelve in the high season. Cars and motorcycles can be rented, but most transportaion is by boat. Water taxis serve the main beaches, with larger boats sailing around Alonissos and further north to the deserted islands of the Marine Park. Hikers will enjoy following the old mule track down to the port.

greek sporades island alonissos The islands best beaches are reachable by small boat or caique and most of them have snack bars or tavernas in the summer.

Beaches

Ancient Allonissos town (5th C BC) is at Kokkino Kastro (Red Castle) and has a nice shingle beach just 25 minutes by caique. North of Patitri the first really nice beach is Chrysi Milia (Golden Apple) in a small cove surrounded by pines and three tavernas. The best fishing and water sports are to be found further north at Kalamakia and Steni Vala. Kalamakia and Steni Vala have small pensions where rooms may be let. The next beach north, Aghios Dimitrios boasts ruins of a Byzantine fountain and an ancient settlement by the shore. Prehistoric animal fossils have been discovered at nearby Megliamos beach which is lovely and usually deserted. The best diving is to be found at Gerakas, an old sheperds village, and Hodros Kavos where divers can enjoy unusual fish and underwater caves.

Towns

The towns are unspoiled by tourism. Most development is in Patitiri and Alonnisos. Remarkably, every house has a cesspit, so no sewage enters the sea. This regard for ecology has resulted in many benefits for Alonnisos.

Port of Patitiri Town

Post earthquake housing projects of the government resulted in the new construction of Patitiri, the island's bustling main port and only major town. greek sporades island alonissos Although of new construction, the town is fairly pleasant and islanders have further beautified it with many plants and bouganvillea vines. There are very nice craft stores, for those inclined towards shopping.

Patitiri Town is the site of the Society for the Study and Protection of the Monk Seal where you can see some videos and learn more about these endangered animals.

A small beach is in Patitiri and a nicer one lies at Votsi a bit to the north. Just to the south is Marpouta with the sunken remains of the Temple of Asklepios the Healer, and the even nicer beaches of Megalos Mouritas and Vithisma.

Alonissos Town or Hora

Old Alonissos or Hora (Chora), 5 km west of Patriti still retains period architectural remnants of pre-quake days. The ruins of its Venetian castle are still visible. The towns walls were originally built by the Byzantines and subsequently restored by the Venetians.

Hora is reachable by paved road or on foot by donkey path which passes through nut orchards. You're rewarded for the steep climb by scenic views far above the sea. Sunsets are often particularly lovely.

Heading back down from Hora, a 20 minute walk will bring you to sandy Vrisitsa beach. An hour's hike from Hora is the wonderful Bay of Ormos Gialai.

Drinking and Dining

greek sporades island alonissos Amenities are basic but good and seafood delicacies such as lobster, are plentiful and reasonable.

There is limited late night entertainment and music.

History

Name changes and earthquakes have complicated history here. Modern Alonissos is not ancient Halonnesos, but actually had the name Ikos. After independence, there was a too-rushed effort to restore place names, and things got a bit confused. Some scholars say the ancient Halonnesos must have been tiny Psathoura where a submerge city lies offshore.

Creten Prince Staphylos planted the first vines here. They later made Ikos famous. In the 1950's Alonissos' wine industry and grapefruit orchards were wiped out by disease and many islanders were forced to seek work in Athens.

Those left today are primarily shepherds, fisherman and in the tourism industry during season. Nine-tenths of Alonissos' roads have not been rebuilt, making it a hiker's paradise.

Only a few of Hora's original inhabitants remain. Many Germans and Britons saw a golden opportunity to buy after the wine industry crashed and bought and restored old residences. This was all when power and running water were prohibited by the Greek junta as part of their forced removal of the inhabitants. Utilities have since been restored, of course.

The earliest Paleolithic finds in the entire Aegean (100,000 to 33,000 BC) have been discovered on the island opposite Kokkinokastro and are on display in the Volos Museum on mainland Greece. The island bore other names too; Chelidromea and Diadromia in addition to the more recent Liodromia.

Rulers have changed over the years. Halonnesos was the object of rivalry between Phillip of Macedon and Athens which had a naval base there in the 4th C BC. In 42 BC, the Romans gave it to Athens again only to lose it to the pirate Sostratos. At some point the Halonnesos lost all importance and with the help of the sea, its location faded from all memory. This lull into obscurity probably aided Alonissos in becoming the eco-tourism leader in Greece today, because it slowed down development and growth.

The Surrounding Archepelago

Because the small islets surrounding Alonissos are so beautiful they have become popular as flotilla destinations and for private yachts.

The island of Peristera is covered by olive trees, has plenty of sandy beaches and a ruined castle. Peristera is a mirror image of the east coast of Alonissos, and it's easy to see how the quake separated to two land areas.

The island of Psathora has one of the largest lighthouses in Greece. Due to its submerged ruins and sunken volcano, Psathora is postulated to be the island of the Sirens in Homer's Odyssey as well as ancient Halonnesos. Caiques only go to Psathoura every ten days.

The island of Kyra Panagia is 2 to 3 hours by boat from Patitiri. It once had two monasteries but is now home to goats and the occasional sheperd. Kyra Panagia is owned by Mt. Athos. It is beautiful and heavily wooded with sandy beaches. A sunken Byzantine ship, its hold once filled with ceramics, lays in the waters of the port of Aghios Petros. The islet also has a stalactite cave thought to be residence of the one-eyed Cyclops of ancient myth.

Verdant Skantzoura island also has a monastery founded by Mt. Athos. Fishermen enjoy this islet with its many caves and coves.

On Pappou, hares run wild among the ruins of a 7th Century church.

On Gioura (ancient Geronta) a rare breed of goat related to the African Ibex skips from rock to rock among the remains of classical and Roman ruins. Gioura has an even better Cyclops cave. In the cave, caution is advised as well as sensible boots and a flashlight! You must get island guardians to unlock the gates to see the Cyclops cave and its stalactites.

Piperi is home to a small but stable monk seal population and the Elonora falcon! This island is prohibited without special permission. It is at the north end of the National Marine Park.

Hints

This is a great spot to splurge on that lobster dinner. Fresh, flavorful, delicious and an island specialty.

SCUBA diving is forbidden without special government permits. Motorcycles are available for rent, but be sure you are expert and handing one on sand and slippery shale because the tracks on this island are steep and tricky. You'd do better to consider a walking tour.

At the 17th Century church Christos in Hora, be sure to keep an eye out for the dancing ghosts! Local lore says they haunt the area.

Maps

greek sporades island alonissos

greek sporades island alonissos

The Complete Details

Helpful Information
Transportation Facts
  • Daily ferry from Aghios Kostandinos, Volos, Kimi, Skopelos, Skiathos
  • There is hydrofoil service during the summer, connecting to Skopelos Town, Glossa, Skiathos, Volos, and Agios Konstantinos
  • In summer, one bus runs from Ptitiri to Old Alonnisos
Island Resources
  • Tel. code: 2424
  • Port Authority: Tel. 65595
  • Post Code: 37005



FEATURED PROPERTIES:

Ikaria - Armenistis
New Maisonettes

Price: €209,000
 -  125 m2
Bedrooms: 3  Baths: 2



 

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